Fire and Smoke – A Cinco de Mayo Symphony at J-Bar-M

Celebrating Cinco de Mayo rarely involves barbecue, but the celebration was in full swing at J-Bar-M. Walking in, you could feel a difference in the air. Behind the service counter, a whole goat, cabrito, was roasting over their open fire pit, on full display as Chef Arash Kharat spritzed it, flipped it, and tended to it. The skin crackled and popped as the flames licked at the fat, sending a rich, primal aroma wafting through the dining room. The sound was almost percussive—rhythmic, a raw, untamed beat you could tap your foot to. Working before the cabrito, splayed open on its iron frame, the staff moved to slice brisket, ribs, turkey, and sausage on the block. Sides were scooped as guests slowly shuffled their way down the line, oohing and aahing at the hulking roast on full display before them.

After one final spritz, Arash moved quickly outside.

Outside, near the outdoor seating area, smoke curled through the crowd as Chef Arash weaved his way behind hanging pineapples, assembling taco orders with a quick, decisive hand. Fast, aggressive, and loud, the Mill Scale open fire pit sang with a boisterous voice. The smoke arrived at tables much like a Mariachi band—whether you asked for it or not, it was very much in your face. Jalapeños blistered and popped on the front end of the plancha while steaks sang over the blazing flames of the live fire. Guests approached the monster of steel and flames, tickets clutched in hand, nervously passing them to the chef as they cowered from the heat. The fire permeated the space, but Chef Arash stood firm, directing the proteins and managing the chaos with the grace of a conductor.

After plating up a few rounds of tacos, Arash moved to yet another fire—the back pits, where the briskets rested, sleeping low and slow on giant offsets. Here, the pace softened, the embers crackled gently, and the smoke flowed in slow, measured waves. A smooth, soulful lullaby for the meats that would awaken the next day from their long slumber from within the giant quiet beasts.

It felt like each fire had its own voice—a chaotic but coordinated symphony of fire, heat, and smoke, each pit with its own tones, depth, and ferocity. Arash was the bandleader, moving from fire to fire, each step a beat, each gesture a note in a complex song of service.

General Manager Hoffie Ferreira is another standout presence at J-Bar-M. If Arash is conducting mariachi, lullabies, and the cha-cha, Hoffie is pure jazz in the dining room. Big, bold, and sometimes seemingly sporadic, Hoffie is engaging. He moves through the different rhythms of the indoor dining area, the booming patio, the bar, and even the quiet private room with a kind of syncopated, unpredictable swagger. A towering South African with a personality to match, Hoffie greets guests with massive, back-breaking hugs and commands the dining room with his booming laugh, easygoing charm, and massive arms. Having been with J-Bar-M for over two years now, he’s become a staple of the operation, embodying the spirit of hospitality that defines this EaDo institution.

As Hoffie walked us through the restaurant, his enthusiasm only grew. He talked lovingly about the collaborations J-Bar-M has done to support the local community, from the murals along the back fence by young local artists to the packed event calendar of pop up markets and local vendors. He smiled at guests as he passed, somehow a wrecking ball in the middle of a jazz club—big and imposing but somehow graceful not to knock anything over.

Visiting J-Bar-M can be one of many experiences—a classic barbecue platter inside, a burger and fries at the bar, a beer and wings outside with a live band. Orchestrating and conducting all of these requires a versatile chef and crew, and the music from the kitchen was quite lovely.